By Sharon Sobel
Издание адресовано создателям исторических костюмов для театра, праздничных представлений и выставок. Даны подробные иллюстрации по процессу выкраивания костюмов, начиная с эпохи Древней Греции и заканчивая костюмами 19 века.
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Extra resources for Draping Period Costumes: Classical Greek to Victorian
Extra bulk can be pinned out along the side seam and into the sleeve seam. Altered sideseams Right angle at hemline As shown with the Greek garments, if you prefer more permanence and structure, the high waistline of the woman’s tunic can be gathered onto a tape or a casing for elastic can be sewn on. Early, Unstructured Garments The Roman Toga The man’s Toga was an adaptation of the Greek Himation; it had the same general dimensions (the man’s height by three times the man’s height). The differences were in the shape and in the way it was draped.
39 three CUT AND SHAPED TO F I T: T H E G O T H I C PERIOD 42 Draping Period Costumes Beginning in the fourteenth century, costume for both men and women developed a more fitted silhouette. Seams followed the line of the body; sleeves were shaped and fitted into armholes. Because of this new shaping, belts were used more for decorative effect than for controlling fullness. Most of the men’s garments were relatively short, so they covered their legs with tightly fitted hose, usually made of wool and cut out of woven, not knit, cloth.
Sometimes a half circle was cut out for the neck. Other than evening out the hem, this garment can be cut flat. The Paludamentum was worn over the shoulder with the opening to the side. It was closed and held in place with a decorative brooch or a heavy stick pin (fibula). Early, Unstructured Garments Early Gothic Costume Early Gothic Overgarments Early Gothic Tunics A version of the semicircular Paludamentum maintained its popularity through the middle of the first millennium, but with a twist.